As we well know by now, when it comes to the quality—and by extension: pricing—of tea, location remains to be the most significant factor. Terroir—the unique environment where the tea is grown—influences the teas characteristics profoundly, from its flavor profile to assessment of its quality. However, after location, what should we look for next when seeking to distinguish these factors? It varies from tea to tea. For some of the most popular teas today—Pu Er and Wu Long—the age of the tea tree itself plays this crucial role. Understanding these age-related terms will help you associate a tea with its specific flavor profile and, consequently, the tea’s value or price.
Pu Er Tea: The Legacy of Ancient Trees
Pu Er tea, hailing from Yun Nan province in China, is renowned for its rich history and unique aging potential. The age of the tea trees from which Pu Er is harvested significantly impacts the flavor, texture, and value of the tea (for more about Pu Er, check out our article on the Pu Er Tea).
King Tea Tree: "1000-Year-Old Tea Trees" 千年古樹
In many Yun Nan villages, you might hear about "1000-year-old tea trees." While the oldest known tea tree is estimated to be around 850 years old, the term "1000-year-old" is used colloquially to emphasize the tree's ancient heritage and significant size. These majestic trees are believed to have been planted before the Ming (1368–1644) and Qing (1644–1912) dynasties. Each village might have a few of these venerable giants, serving as living monuments to the region's tea culture.
Gu Shu/Lao Shu - (Ancient Tree/Old Tree)
The terms Gu Shu (古樹) and Lao Shu (老樹) are often used interchangeably to describe ancient tea trees. Some enthusiasts argue that Gu Shu refers to older trees than Lao Shu, but there is no consensus. Generally, these terms refer to tea trees planted during the prime times, making them approximately 200–600 years old. These trees are heirloom, as they are the product of sexual reproduction from seeds, leading to genetic diversity.
These ancient trees occupy some of the best plots of land. In the grand scheme of the time horizon, they got the first "pick" of optimal growing locations simply because they were there first. In recent years, China has passed regulations to define ancient tea trees as those with a trunk diameter of 15 cm or more. While it's impractical to measure every tree, this serves as a useful guideline, as trees exceeding this size are likely at least 100 years old.
Back when these trees were planted, they were each given more room to grow, as quality was prioritized over production quantity. Allowed to grow naturally, the results were robust, healthy plants with deep roots and complex flavor profiles.
Xiao Shu: "Small Tree"
Xiao Shu (小樹) refers to younger tea trees, typically 40–100 years old. Like Gu Shu, these are also heirloom trees grown from seeds. Importantly, Xiao Shu trees often share the same plots and coexist with Lao Shu trees. They are usually planted when space becomes available after an older tree dies.
These younger trees have the potential to become Lao Shu as they age. Visually, they can be distinguished by their smaller trunk diameter—less than 15 cm. While they haven't reached the maturity of the older trees, they contribute to the diversity and sustainability of the tea gardens.
Sheng Tai: "Ecological/Organic Tea Tree"
Sheng Tai (生態) tea trees are a more recent development, when land used for plantation growing is converted for the sake of ecological means. These trees are not heirloom and are propagated through asexual reproduction, meaning they are clones. In recent years, there has been a movement to thin out plantation trees to allow the land to recover and to let each individual tree grow more sustainably.
This process involves reducing the density of plantation trees—sometimes by a third or even a tenth—to decrease the strain on the land. By providing each tree with more resources, they can grow healthier and develop more complex flavors. Sheng Tai trees are usually larger with neat formations, as people stop pruning them to allow natural growth. However, because they are clones and not grown from seed, there's uncertainty whether they will ever reach the same flavor profile as Gu Shu or Xiao Shu trees. Since we don't have 200-year-old Sheng Tai trees yet, this remains an open question.
It's worth noting that some so-called "fake" Gu Shu teas are actually made from Sheng Tai trees. You can often tell by the formation of the trees—Is there a straight line of tea trees? If yes, they are likely Sheng Tai.
Tai Di Cha (Terrace/Plantation Tea)
Tai Di Cha (台地茶) refers to tea trees planted in terraced or leveled land on mountainsides. These are not heirloom trees but are clones propagated through asexual reproduction. They are planted in high density to maximize production. Yun Nan is one of China's largest tea-producing provinces, and the vast majority of its teas are Tai Di Cha.
When you see neat rows of tea trees planted in orderly formations, you're likely looking at Tai Di Cha. Most tea plantations around the world use similar methods. While these plantations are efficient for large-scale production, they are often the lowest category in terms of flavor complexity and value compared to older, heirloom trees. Due to the high density, it's challenging to adopt sustainable farming methods, and it's harder to avoid using fertilizers and pesticides (read more about the impact of fertilizers and pesticides here).
Tai Di Cha and Sheng Tai trees can be around the same age, as both have been planted in modern times. There is a tendency to convert older and better-performing Tai Di Cha trees into Sheng Tai by reducing their density and allowing for more natural growth.
The Impact on Flavor
In general, as a tea tree grows older, its flavor profile becomes more elegant and complex. Gu Shu teas may be less showy in terms of immediate aroma but offer a finer mouthfeel and longer aftertaste. In contrast, Tai Di Cha teas usually have a "fresh" taste with bright aromas but tend to have a rougher texture. (learn more about the Hierarchy of Taste here).
One of the main merits of Pu Er tea is that it allows us to experience teas from older trees at a relatively affordable price. In the case of Wu Long teas, having access to trees even over 100 years old can be prohibitively expensive. Sometimes, Dan Cong teas from trees just a few decades old can command extremely high prices.
The Prestige of Age: Understanding Dan Cong's Oldest Trees
Feng Huang Dan Cong 鳳凰單叢 teas, originating from the Phoenix Mountains in Guang Dong province, are known for their unique fragrance and flavor profiles. (Read more about Dan Cong here). The age of the tea trees plays a significant role in determining the quality and price of these teas. While the aroma might be less immediately striking compared to younger trees, the texture is smoother and rounder, and the aftertaste is much longer and more ever-changing.
Mu Shu (Mother Tree)
It is estimated that there are about 1,000 trees in the Phoenix Mountains that are over 100 years old. These are heirloom trees, and many serve as the "mother tree" (Mu Shu 母樹) for specific cultivars, meaning that saplings are taken from them to develop clones. The age of these trees is directly associated with their value, making them some of the most sought-after teas in the region.
Sometimes, there can be disputes or confusion over which trees are the true mother trees. For example, there might be ten very old trees near each other, and it's debatable which one is actually the mother tree. However, what is not debatable is that they are all old and produce exceptional tea.
Lao Cong ("Old Tree"/"Old Bush"/"Old Grove")
Unlike Yan Cha, for Dan Cong the term Lao Cong (老樅) doesn't have a strict definition, but generally refers to tea trees that are at least 40 years old, with most being 50–60 years old or older. These trees can be a mixture of heirloom and non-heirloom varieties. The teas produced from Lao Cong trees offer a more elegant and elevated profile.
Cong Wei and the Art of Identifying Yan Cha's Old Tree Teas
Yan Cha Wu Long 武夷巖茶, known as "Cliff Tea" or "Rock Tea," is cultivated in the rugged, mineral-rich terrain of the Wu Yi Mountains in Fujian province. The unique terroir imparts a distinctive minerality to these teas, and the age of the tea trees further enhances their characteristics. (To delve deeper into Yan Cha, you can check out our Yan Cha Fundamentals here). What sets Yan Cha apart is that the terminology used to distinguish between the ages of the trees largely refers to a single cultivar: Shui Xian (水仙). (Learn more about Shui Xian!)
Bai Nian Lao Cong (百年老樅), meaning "100-Year-Old Lao Cong," refers to Shui Xian tea trees that are over 80 years old and are believed to be heirloom trees. Teas produced from these venerable trees usually demand ten times the price of other Shui Xian teas from the same terroir due to their rarity and the profound depth of flavor they offer.
Lao Cong (老樅), or "Old Tree/Old Bush/Old Grove," describes Shui Xian trees typically between 60 and 80 years old. The teas harvested from these trees are prized for their enhanced flavor complexity and minerality, with prices typically three to five times higher than regular Shui Xian from the same area.
Gao Cong (高樅), meaning "Tall Tree/Tall Bush/Tall Grove," refers to Shui Xian trees that are generally 40 to 60 years old. Teas made from these trees are valued for their developing complexity and are priced two to three times higher than standard Shui Xian teas from the same terroir.
On the other hand, Lao Shu ("Old Tree") refers to older trees from cultivars other than Shui Xian. These trees do not follow the same 40–60/60–80/80+ year classifications as Shui Xian; definitions are still being developed. Typically, if it's a known non-Shui Xian cultivar that starts to develop Cong Wei (樅味)—a prized flavor note—it is called Lao Shu. For example, Lao Shu Rou Gui usually refers to first-generation Rou Gui trees planted in the late 1980s and 1990s. (Learn more about Rou Gui!). While Lao Shu teas of any cultivar have a price advantage due to their age and flavor complexity, the categorization isn't as systematic as it is with Shui Xian.
Teas from older trees in the Yan Cha category generally exhibit a more prominent minerality and a refined flavor profile. Like Pu Er and Dan Cong, there is a finesse to their taste that sets them apart. Connoisseurs particularly seek out the Cong Wei note, sometimes described as a mossy or forest-like essence, which becomes more pronounced as the tree ages. Because of the significant price difference between a standard Shui Xian and a Bai Nian Lao Cong Shui Xian, enthusiasts take pride in their ability to identify Cong Wei, associating it directly with the value and age of the tree.
As with many concepts in tea knowledge, it's important to define the context and scope of the terms we're discussing. For example, Lao Shu Pu Er refers to trees that are 200–600 years old, but Lao Shu Rou Gui refers to trees that are around 30 years old. Lao Cong varies significantly from the Phoenix Mountains to Wu Liang Shan. Similar confusion can extend to other concepts related to tea age, such as Dan Cong and Dan Zhu.
Dan Cong vs. Dan Zhu: Legacy Practices in Tea Production
Dan Cong (單叢) refers to a legacy practice of producing Phoenix Wu Long teas. In the past, fresh leaves harvested from large old tea trees were individually processed during the primary processing stage and then blended during the refining process. This method created a final tea very similar to teas from an heirloom tree but consisting of leaves from various old trees. While this practice is no longer used, the name has persisted and is now synonymous with Phoenix wu long now
Dan Zhu (单株) refers to teas that go through both the primary and refining steps from individual trees. While Dan Cong is no longer an active practice, Dan Zhu is the closest modern equivalent and is a prized practice in both Yun Nan for Pu Er and the Phoenix Mountain for Wu Long.
Many people wonder if single-tree Pu Er or single-tree Phoenix Wu Longs are always better. Technically, you could take leaves from a small tree and process it into Dan Zhu, but it's usually only done with larger, older trees that produce enough leaves to make it worthwhile and to showcase the age of the tree. In other words: the older the tree the larger the tree, the larger the tree the more leaves, and the more leaves the greater reason and ability to sell a tea as single tree.
The Allure of Age: Cultural Significance of Ancient Tea Trees
Older tea trees hold a special place in the hearts of tea enthusiasts, not just for their flavor but also for their cultural and historical significance.
As discussed, teas from older trees are often more expensive due to their limited availability and the complexity they offer. The rarity of leaves from ancient trees and the labor-intensive process of harvesting them contribute to the higher price.
There are certain esoteric ideas that older trees have absorbed more energy from the earth, holding greater spiritual and medicinal significance. From the perspective of appreciating the aesthetics of tea, we focus on the complexity and balance found in teas from older trees. If a tree can live for a thousand years, then plantation trees which are 5–10 years old are simply not at their prime. Just as wine from young vines have less complexity, younger tea trees haven't developed the depth that comes with age. Older trees are in their prime, offering more potential for flavor development.
Tasting tea from a tree that was planted long before your lifetime connects you to history in a tangible way, satisfying an intellectual curiosity for many connoisseurs. You don't get to eat an apple from the same tree the Elizabethans ate from, but with tea, you can experience something similar!
Enjoying tea from the same tree that your ancestors may have harvested and enjoyed adds a romantic and sentimental dimension to the experience. It's a bridge between generations, cultures, and traditions, enriching the simple act of drinking tea with deeper meaning.
Conclusion
The age of the tea tree plays a crucial role in shaping the flavor, texture, and value of the tea it produces. From the ancient Gu Shu trees of Pu Er to the venerable Mu Shu of the Phoenix Mountains and the Bai Nian Lao Cong of the Wu Yi cliffs, older trees offer a complexity and depth that younger trees simply cannot match. Understanding these age-related terms not only helps in identifying the flavor and quality of a tea but also deepens our appreciation for the legacy and history these trees carry.
Whether you're drawn to the rich history, the unique flavors, or the cultural significance, exploring teas from older trees is a journey through time and tradition. The next time you encounter terms like Gu Shu, Lao Cong, or Dan Zhu, you'll have a deeper understanding of the heritage behind them and the exceptional qualities they bring to your cup.
Want to taste the difference for yourself?Join us for a comparative tea tasting where you'll taste the difference age makes. Discover how teas from more youthful plants contrast with those harvested from centuries-old trees. Experience firsthand how the age of a tea tree transforms the flavor profile—adding depth, complexity, and a richness that only time can impart.